On The Hunt For Great Value

In the first of a four-part opinion piece, Singapore’s first Master of Wine, Tan Ying Hsien, shares his wine insights with Gastronome. This issue, he asserts that while wine prices may have gone up for Burgundies and Champagnes, there are still plenty of worthy finds if one is willing to cast the net wider.

A frequent refrain to be heard at wine dinners, tasting and events in recent months has been how expensive wine has become in the past few years. This is usually accompanied by a bemoaning of the limited options left for consumption, and occasionally, a nervous wringing of the hands, a tense pursing of the lips and a distressed frown. Whilst it is certainly true that there has been a rise in wine prices and some tear – inducing hikes in the prices of certain wines – it is still possible to find in the minefield of overpriced wine lists very reasonably priced options for delicious drinking.

Price increases have not been uniform across the board. The worst culprits in the world of fine wine have been Burgundy and Champagne. The reasons for the price rises in these wines are varied and a subject for a separate discussion, but it is fortunate that the wine world does not revolve around Burgundy and Champagne. Even so, for those who pine after Burgundy and Champagne and feel they’re missing out with today’s prices, patience is the key. What goes up eventually comes down (before it again begins to pick up or even bounce back) – the effect of gravity on the market price of any commodity. According to Liv–ex, Burgundy and Champagne showed the largest declines amongst fine wines last year. Fine red Bordeaux is beginning to creep up in contrast. Ironically some may remember the days before Pinot Noir was the rage when the prices of Bordeaux hit the stratosphere. Those with even longer memories may remember a time when Guigal’s LaLaLas were often higher priced than some First Growths and many Grand Cru Burgundies. Today, the prices of many top Rhone and Bordeaux wines are languishing, relative to the current prices of Burgundy and Champagne.

From a wine purchasing perspective, and assuming one’s tastes are so inclined, looking at these classic areas outside of the current darlings can repay rich dividends both in terms of investment value and drinking pleasure. There are mature examples of claret, from the 1990s for instance, that are roughly the same price as more recently released vintages. These would provide much drinking pleasure – assuming they are of good provenance and kept in ideal storage conditions – and many will continue to do so.

For those who are resolutely Francophile in their tastes and focused on fine wine: These should be immediate considerations, searching for mature or maturing examples of claret and northern Rhone wines such as Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie.

For those with broader tastes or the will to explore:
Mature dry white wines from both Bordeaux and the Rhone can be a satisfying substitute for white Burgundy that can be somewhat of a lottery these days with many examples, even top ones, maturing faster than they once did.
The more adventurous will find succulent pleasure in Alsace white wines, often a perfect accompaniment to the seafood and fish of classic French cuisine, not to mention the more strongly flavoured, sometimes spicy local food in Singapore. Fresh white wines from the Loire are another delicious option, and if one must have a red wine alternative that is more reasonably priced than claret or red Burgundy, Chinon has a salivating aspect that can make it immensely drinkable.

For those who are game to venture beyond the borders of France:
There is plenty of choice in terms of substitutes for red and white Burgundy. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the two principal varieties of Burgundy are both widely grown elsewhere. Superb examples of Pinot Noir are to be found in Central Otago, Oregon, California, Victoria, Tasmania to cite a few examples of regions outside Europe. 

In Europe, climate change and warming temperatures has increased the number of excellent examples grown in Germany. Within France itself, warming temperatures, site selection and more refined winemaking mean that creditable bottles of fresh and fruity versions in Alsace, Sancerre, and even in Champagne, where there has been an uptick in interest in still red versions of Pinot Noir, although the Coteaux de Champenois reds still tend to be a little pricey and perhaps do not provide the best value at the moment.

When it comes to Chardonnay, the choice is as varied if not more varied than Pinot Noir, with excellent examples produced in California, Western Australia and Victoria. For bitingly fresh and savoury alternatives, there is an array of Italian white wines which can give great joy, with personal favourites being the whites of Campania featuring the likes of native Italian grape varieties such as Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo as well as fruitier styles of Vermentino di Sardegna. A classic Australian style often overlooked is Hunter Valley Semillon which can age up to twenty years of age giving a nutty toasted expression reminiscent of aged Chablis. Circling back to Europe, traditional white Rioja made in decreasing quantities from the Viura grape variety can be very similar in flavour and texture to a high quality Pessac – Leognan white wines.

Substitutes for Champagne are more challenging. Champagne still sets the benchmark for top quality sparkling wine made in the traditional method. Yet within Champagne itself, good value can still be found if the famous names and prestige cuvées are avoided. There are stalwart names such as Pol Roger which are still very reasonably priced at all quality levels. Additionally, even entry level non–vintage Champagne from reputable houses can be excellent with some bottle age, developing depth of flavour and some of that trademark toast and biscuit that comes with bottle ageing. A recently served bottle of Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial aged for about twenty years showed a warm, toasty biscuity note that was very alluring. Outside Champagne, Franciacorta, top Spanish cava and Trentodoc sparkling wines can be a match for even some of the top cuvees of Champagne houses – and at a fraction of the price.

The choice is extensive. The value is there. It may require a little research and consultation with knowledgeable friends, sommeliers and wine merchants, but there is no shortage of very fine wine at very reasonable prices for all occasions to be found.

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Saint Pierre is proud to have Singapore’s first Master of Wine, Tan Ying Hsien, as our esteemed wine consultant. As a  Two Michelin-Starred French restaurant in Singapore, we offer an exceptional wine and dine experience with breathtaking views of Marina Bay Sands (MBS). Our carefully curated wine list crafted under Tan Ying’s expert guidance, features a diverse selection of the finest wines from around the world, perfectly paired to complement our exquisite French cuisine. Discover why we are the premier wine and dine destination in Singapore.

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View the story in issue 07 of our quarterly food and beverage e-magazine here: